Back To Basics
Mt. Doom (CMC Valley)
Back to Basics 5.9, 170m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Matt Roy April 2, 2010
Mt. Doom has not seen a new route for nearly 40 years. I have not known anyone to have climbed there excpet Chris Perry. The small north wall had never been climbed, so we climbed it. The route is mostly run out easy loose terrain with the odd section of steep cruxy but well protected areas. We did the route ground up, no bolts or pins all free. We walked off to the right.
Approach: As for the east end of yam but drop behind and b line it for the wall, about 1 hour from lot.
Gear: Single rack to 3.5 inches, 70m rope.
P1) 5.9, 50m Start at the base of the lefthand rib of the small north wall on its east face of mt. doom. Spiral around on large blocks to a steep face with good cracks, pass this crux and head up an easy crack to a tree.
P2) 5.8, 25m Traverse right on good holds to the base of a steep crack, climb its left side and make an awekward travers right to a ledge, drop down into a chimney, great gear for belay.
P3) 5.7, 30m Up the chimney, head right on a slab and up to a tree.
P4) 5.6, 70m Head out right and up thru a funky groove with jugs out onto easier ground to the top.