Whatever Floats Your Goat / J. Mills & Kris Irwin - Ha Ling
Info from J. Mills for two new routes via the TABVAR Facebook page:
Whatever Floats Your Goat 5.9+, 340m
J. Mills & Kris Irwin 5.10b, 340m
Did two routes on Ha Ling last week to the left of the normal NE Face 5.6 route. They both climbed 130-150m on the lower section until reaching the large scree ramp that you could scramble to from the left, or scramble down to from about half way up the normal NE Face route. On the upper section both routes followed obvious and high quality corner features for 3 or 4 pitches. On the left hand line we found no signs of travel, but on the right hand corner we found 2 pins at about 30m and then two bolts just before the crux at 60m that had bail biners on them (marked on photo). Perhaps this line had already been climbed, but it looks like someone got to the crux and bailed. No signs of travel on the 2 and half pitches above the bolts, but who knows? Both routes are highly recommended. I'll post a description and such on the TABVAR website if nobody comes forward to claim that either of these lines has already been climbed. If anyone goes there, take a big rack, some pins, and an extra nut tool for digging out gear placements. There are no fixed anchors.
Description for the photo topo (from the base of the route): The lower part of the climbs reaches a big scree ramp that is crossed to access the upper corner pitches.