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Prairie Creek - Chicklet Fangs 5.10+

Mon, 08/02/2010 - 10:37 — mrpog

Chicklet Fangs (5.10+; 6 bolts+anchors). Start ~20m uphill from Alberta Bound/Got Mersey Beat. Climb up the steep, bulge, moving left until below an open book corner. Climb up into the corner with difficulty and then cruise to the top. There is a "right" way and a hard way to do this. ;)

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Tue, 08/10/2010 - 16:40 — Derek

Hi, I'm currently working on

Hi,
I'm currently working on a new sport climbing guide book for the Bow Valley. Do you know the height of your route? And do you have the FA info? On another note do you know anything about the new routes just right of where the approach trail meets the wall? Any info you could provide would be a great help.

Derek

Thu, 08/26/2010 - 08:01 — jon

Hi Derek: I climbed these (4)

Hi Derek:

I climbed these (4) routes yesterday. L to R:

5.11- 8m 4 clips.
5.11+ 8m 5 clips steep and entertaining . Short but quite good.
5.11- 11m 4 clips starts up obvious corner and then steep face on L. A bit weird getting to anchor.
5-10- 10m 5 clips steep bulge to easy slab.

All could do with more cleaning as the builder(s) only cleaned the holds that they used. Also, all the anchors except the corner route need fixing as they comprise single quick-links through hangers so that the lowering link parallels the rock.

jon

Sat, 08/21/2010 - 06:59 — mrpog

Hi Derek. 1. the route is

Hi Derek.
1. the route is approx 16-18m.
2. I saw the routes you are talking about but alas, I dont know who put them up or anything else about them.

Cheers.

John