All Climbs

This is the master list of all currently hosted topos and updates for Alberta. This is a temporary measure as I get the topos correctly organized again. Ian.

The Alt-Left 11b A0 335m

From Marc Piché‎

The Alt-Left, EEOR 5.11b A0, 335m
Marc Piché, Steve Holeczi Aug. 15, 2016

Approach: Hike up as for True Grit, Geriatric, Econoline. Start ~15m left of a lone spruce tree at the base of the wall and ~15 m right of Econoline. The first bolt has a black hanger and is ~8m above the ground

P1- 50m,5.9: Climb up on good rock with some delicate moves to a good ledge and anchor after 30m.  Either belay here or preferably ascend another 20m (5.8) to a bolted anchor on a loose ledge.  

Quiet Daze 5.8 125m

From Grant Parkin:

Quiet Daze 5.8 125m

F.A. of full route- Grant Parkin, Trevor Jones. (Sep 2016)

F.A. for P1 Colin Hoglund, Grant Parkin. (May 2016)

Sentinel, South End. Located several meters left of Ambulance Chaser, the route Quiet Daze is a fully bolt protected five pitch route on generally good rock. Named after a comment I’d made about it being a quiet day when I equipped the first pitch and later realized I must have been in a daze when my four pitch project turned out to have five rappels/pitches.

Looks like blood, smells like berries

From Patrick Jones via the TABVAR Facebook Page

175m - 5.7 mixed trad route
Patrick Jones, Matt Johnston, Nicole Jones, Michael Newman, Matt George - September 25, 2016

Approach: total approx. 20-30 min
Park as you would for Abraham slabs. Walk up the approach trail to the base of the slabs. From the climb "Slicktion" it is approx. 5-10 min up hill. The climb is left off “hidden crack”. The climb starts at tree line. You will see the first bolt approx 5m off the ground.

The Drive In

From J Brent Peters via the TABVAR Facebook Page:

See here for details:
http://www.peakstratagem.com/the-drive-in-drytooling

As of 17 October 2016, there are 6 routes at The Drive-In. The first route that you come to starts in up a broken wall to a left facing corner just beyond where the approach trail reaches the cliff. The routes are described from left to right:

The Playground (Drytooling)

From J Brent Peters
http://www.peakstratagem.com/the-playground-drytooling

The routes at The Playground are described from left to right. It can be divided into 5 areas: Upper Cave, Playground Left, Swiss Cheese Cave, Rat’s Nest Wall, Mutt Wall, and Recess Wall.

Upper Cave: This cave is located left and above The Playground proper. There is only one route here at this time.

Just The Tip D7 This route climbs vertical terrain to the right of a large cave. FA: Michelle Kadatz, Steve Kovalenko

Cougar Canyon - Creekside updates

From Don McPhalen:

July 2016 Update - Creekside Crag Cougar Creek

The routes listed as #4, 5, 7, 14, 15 and 19 in the Bow Valley Sport book have been retrofitted with permission. Each route now has its own anchor. The bolt positions and numbers have changed to update the routes post flood. In addition a “second pitch” has been added to route #4 - this may be a good setup to practice the up and down of multipitching.

McGillivray Pond

From Gerry Drotar

A new sport crag with 10 routes and one gear climb. Bolted spring 2016. 8 quickdraws and a 60m rope.
Either park in the large pull out overlooking the small island with flags and picnic table in Lac des Arcs
(westbound lanes, necessitates a sprint across the highway – not recommended). Alternatively, from the
eastbound lanes pull off just before the guardrail begins. Park in the ditch or at a small clearing just
above.

Echo Canyon - Lookout Update

From Grzegorz Tos via Facebook:
Lookout Update
The Shield area (page 160,161 Bow Valley Sport)
This little gem of a spot is often overlooked but offers a great spectrum of grades of routes with five star quality. Perfect in Spring and Fall. Gets sun from 9:30 till 4:00.

Echo Canyon - Balcony

From Grzegorz Tos via Facebook:
Bit of heads up for those heading into Echo Canyon this spring. Since the last print of Bow Valley Sport guide book a lot has happened in the canyon. To avoid confusion look through all the updates on TABVAR page for walls that you are interested in. From what I can tell all guys involved have been good at posting updates here. Some sectors have more than twice as many routes as in the guide book. Example is The Balcony. Attached is a nice topo put together by Bonar McCallum.

Another New Route in Canyon Creek

Location: Right of the Moose Patch area, this route forms the 2nd pitch of an existing bolted line 15m. right of "A Moose Once Bit My Sister", or it can be combined with the 1st pitch of that route (as an alternate finish), or it can be accessed by scrambling up the the middle ledge via easy steps 40m. right.
Name: Moose Bites Can Be Nasty
Length: 40m. Grade: 5.10b/c

Echo Canyon - Hungry Tiger Wall

Hungry Tiger Wall.

This new crag is a great addition to the shady side of Echo Canyon. Save it for warm summer days when the other side is baking in the sun. Hungry Tiger crag is located on the same cliff band as The Notch, but is accessed from below. The routes tend to be long and offer steep climbing on beautiful, featured stone, albeit sometimes sharp. Bring a 70m rope and lots of draws. Grades range from .11b to .12b. Those looking for an easier warmup can start at Sunset Crag, which you pass on the way to the Hungry Tiger crag. If it’s a colder morning, a warmup at The Hideaway is a sunny option. All the routes dry quickly after a rain.

New Route in Canyon Creek

Location: Right of the Moose Patch area, 15m. right of "Spring Moose". Look for bolts leading to a v-groove just left of obvious overhanging roof.
Name: A Moose Once Bit My Sister.
Length: 75m. Grade: 5.11b
Description: P1. 30m. 5.11b (9 bolts). Crux moves through the v-groove. Belay on ledge with an assortment of 6 rusty bolts and pitons (relics from Mountain Rescue courses).

Heart Creek Amphitheatre

Blackheart Amphitheatre Summer 2015 Topo (update from Marcus Norman)

Blackheart Amphitheatre has a history of reconnaissance, route building attempts, aid ascents and looser rock. Expect cerebral routefinding on bands of alternating excellent and not-so-excellent rock. It is advisable to wear a helmet until these routes see enough traffic. It is also advisable to have a full 70m rope for all longer routes.

Unicorn Canyon

Craig Doram writes on the TABVAR Facebook page:

Attached is a guidebook for Unicorn Canyon, a new climbing area being developed just on the outskirts of Kananaskis. A handful of people have put in a lot of hard work over the last couple seasons to get what I think are some pretty awesome routes assembled. There is still a long way to go before its a well travelled place, but for those who are looking for a magical adventure, please enjoy.

 

Raven Crag Update

Plutonian Shores 5.9, 7p, sport - Summer 2012: Audrey, Conrad, Greg, John, Ken, Kris, Larry, Mark, Mike, Tom

Lost Lenore 5.10, 7p, sport - Summer 2013: Audrey, Conrad, Kris, Lisa, Mark, Mike, Todd

Approach: Follow guidebook description to Raven Crag. Halfway along the traverse ledge to the sport routes, drop down beside and then below the lower grey slabs to a platform and line of bolts above. 45-60 minutes.

Descent: Walk up to the ridge above and follow trail and cairns to the approach trail. 10 minutes.

Grotto Canyon - You're Only Cheating Yourself

"You're Only Cheating Yourself" 12a
FA Mason Tessier (July 20, 2013)

A blank looking line located to the right and up the hill from "Watusi Wedding" and "Jesus Drives a Cadillac" at the end of the Paintings Wall. Starting right of the ledge, crimpy and technical face climbing leads to the anchors 8m. If you use the ledge "you're only cheating yourself".

STD Wall Left - New Routes

A number of new sport routes have been added to STD Wall Left in the Ghost. This part of the wall offers shorter climbs than the rest of the STD Wall, but provides some great climbing in the 5.8 to 5.10 grade on the same kind of amazing rock as the Central and Right walls.

Blowing in the wind

Blowing in the Wind ** 5.10, 100m
D. Wilding & M. Bramble, April '08

3 pitches of quality crack climbing on the large wall (The flight deck??) east of Alberta Jam.

Rack: 70m rope, micro cams, med wires, doubles from .75" - 4", several long slings.

Approach: As for "Alberta Jam," trending up and right above the first slab. Some exposed scrambling required.

Cougar Creek New Crag - Sugar Shack

This is the very first crag you will reach about 12 minutes from the car. It is on the right (SE) side of the creek at the first mandatory crossing just after the well traveled trail in the woods which is optional after the large pile of boulders.

The crag is short but burly. The rock is surprisingly good though it might be a tad dusty.

Weird Tales (Free) - STD Wall

User "marcus" writes:

Hi
Just want to let folks know the 3rd pitch of this route (5.9 A0) just left of the wet streak far right, goes very free at 11-, mebbe 11c.
Just grab a mitfull of prickly rock undercling with the left hand to gain a sloping rail with the right.

EEOR's Tail - Update

EEOR'S TAIL ADJUSTMENT!
The following is intended to bring some clarification and adjustment to my MCR regarding Castle Mountain and EEOR’s TAIL that I posted on the 2nd.
 

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